When I first got involved in development work back in the 60s, the big issue on trade was how to help get countries out of the mono culture of cash export crops, converting land instead for domestic food production, and encouraging the export of higher value finished products rather than mere raw materials.
People knew a little about the realities of so-called "sweat shops", but not a lot, and the conditions under which products were made were not really considered to be anything much to do with us as consumers.
I was working for Oxfam, who had in a very small way started buying handicrafts from commercial importers in order to raise funds for the aid programme. When I visited one of these UK suppliers, he congratulated Oxfam's astute buying because much income for Oxfam's work could be made by buying cheap and selling at a good profit.
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I had to persuade the charity's trading board that what it was doing could be considered "exploitation", but was challenged  to find an alternative way to do things. Thus, in 1965, I started Oxfam's Helping-by-Selling project – I suppose the forerunner of what is now called «fair-trade».
Through the experience of 10 years development, our pioneering moved from "helping" to empowerment, by realizing the merits of workers' cooperatives and artisans' societies.
We developed a model for a global cooperative called Bridge, that would have directly linked producers and consumers in lasting commitments beneficial to all. Parts of this proposal were adopted, including the Bridge name and its dividend systems to return profits to those who had contributed to making them (especially the producers).
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